Today we decided we were just going to walk to enjoy it until we felt like stopping. With 3 days to do the final 54km there was no pressure. Our German friend had given me some cream which worked wonders on my toe, and also told us the weather would be fine from 8:00 – 10:00, after which their was a 90% chance of rain.
And enjoy it we did! D2 made sure we took the right direction through the first village

Some of the houses in the bigger villages were amazing

And we even came across a fairy tale wishing well

Soon we were out into the woodlands

And into the 40’s

At a small roadside stall where I bought cherries, we met Asian lady. She will probably never know how happy it makes us just to see and hug her, and how much her gentle determination inspires us.

After a break we headed out into the countryside through lots of pretty little villages. D2 was staying on a bit longer at the bar we had morning tea and I left my phone charging with her. So I had no camera when I went through a village that looked like it was built for a TV cooking show. Quaint white houses covered with rambling pink roses, complete with vine covered areas outside, a couple of which had long tables under the vines. I would have been only slightly surprised to see Antonio Caluccio emerge with a large steaming bowl of spaghetti to feed an expectant family seated around the table.
The rain held off, although my spirits were dampened mid-morning by a couple of big hills

By lunchtime we had reached Arzúa, our original destination from yesterday. We were both happy to walk on, the only problem being it was 13kms to the next town we knew for sure had accommodation, and the skies were looking very threatening.
Full of Camino determination we decided to push on. D2 as usual went ahead to check out the accommodation situation, and as the kilometres passed without a phone call from her it became evident we would be doing the 13 kms

I was still enjoying the walk, through villages and countryside, past the gentleman who was sitting on a wooden stool weeding the spaces around the cobblestones.

The rain had preceded us, and just as D2 called to say she had a room it started to sprinkle.

The signposts had just made the 20’s, and my feet and legs were beginning to complain when she turned up to walk with me.

The albergue at Salceda was lovely and modern and D2 had managed to get a private room. And whoever built this albergue knew how pilgrims felt by the end of the day…..a lift to the first floor, just in case you couldn’t manage the 13 stairs. I took the lift!

 

The rain came down and we were grateful we were sitting inside drinking hot chocolate

I had heard about Galician octopus stew so when I saw Pulpo on the menu I ordered that. And that’s just what I got, a plate of pulpo. D2 was grateful she ordered the ribs!

We had an early night, snuggled up warm in bed listening to the rain. We had actually walked 25kms, and we had done what we set out to do, walked to enjoy it, then stopped.