Isn’t the human body an amazing thing? Despite the ups and downs of yesterday we were on the road by 6:00am.

Earliest dummy spit of the day, also quiet – me sitting on the bunk of the albergue in the dark trying to quietly shove my sleeping bag into my backpack so as not to disturb those still snoring. Why I don’t know, they didn’t mind disturbing us!!

We had a lovely trek through the forest, dark and slightly eery, the clicks of sticks, crunch of leaves underfoot and the occasional owl hoot the only sounds. Thank goodness the sign about witches was at the end of the forest!

We decided not to stop at the first village for breakfast, despite the cafe looking very inviting. but push on to the next. Oh, that’s right, we remember now, nothing is open here at this time of the morning! Dummy spits averted by sitting in the sun and eating bread and cheese.

An hour later, quote of the day-  D2: I can see the village. Mama: Can you smell the coffee? D2: No, only cow shit!

It was another hard day, not sure why the guide books warned against the steep descent the previous day, this was way worse. “And I’m doing this because????” crossed my mind on a number of occasions.

Trek etiquette Tip 1: If you are going to stop and have a rest don’t lean on the Camino sign! Especially if it is sending  pilgrims in a different direction.

D2 went off in the afternoon to find accommodation in Zubiri while D1 and I negotiated the last track of the day. We met Lyn the zig zag lady from Texas, we’d watched her in front of us and were intrigued by her technique of zig-zagging down the track. It is, she said, easier on the knees because you are transversing instead of going straight down. And as well as being a lovely lady, she was right!

Zubiri at last and apart from a slight discussion with another pilgrim about the ownership of the bunk at the albergue, which I won, all is well with the world!

A pilgrim is grateful- D2 was grateful to have a bed to sleep in.