It was an epic battle. The Pyrenees threw everything at us – stony tracks that wound never-endingly up and up and up, sucking the oxygen out of lungs and making our thighs ache.

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The Pyrenees claimed an early win, D1’s 1 litre bottle of mouthwash,  and I hit the the wall mid-morning.

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D1 and I spent 15 minutes perched precariously on a rock to rest, D2 who had gone ahead came back to tell us our Orisson was not all that far, and yep, there it was literally just around the corner

Take the high route, the Napolean route,  all the books said, it might be steeper but the views are amazing.  And yes they were, except who cares about getting your phone out when your legs are aching and your lungs are bursting!

You know that phrase “It ain’t over til the fat lady sings” ?  We stopped and bought drinks and hard boiled eggs from a wayside van and there was a sign that said 11kms to Ronscevalles – 1 km  steep, 5 kms flat, 5 kms down.  Well we thought that’s not too bad, over half way and the steep bit’s almost done.   Well I don’t know what the definition of flat is in the Pyrenees, maybe a little bit of flat in between a lot more steep, but to me this is not flat!

Note to self: learn the difference between left and right! The guide book says that when taking the descent into Ronscevalles, do not take the steep descent to the left, take the right route, it is longer but more gentle. So how did we end up on the steep, knee jarring track, ever downwards over rocks the size of tennis balls? And I kept thinking wow, if this is the gentle route what must the other one be like!

Dummy spit of the day to D2, granted it was a quiet one, but you could see it on her face, as we stood for an hour in line to book in at the albergue! But we made it, a bed, a shower and a meal, what more could you ask! Take that Pyrenees!!

A pilgrim is grateful and today I am grateful, oh so very, very grateful, that I had my backpack sent ahead!!